Annandale’s Korean-Chinese restaurants put their own twist on traditional cuisine

Annandale is known for its own microcosm of Korean civilization and, like any great civilization, that includes a flavor of Chinese.

Whether they are run by Chinese immigrants or Chinese-inspired restaurateurs, Chinese restaurants around the world reflect their host culture. That goes for Korea, too – and Annandale. In a Korean-Chinese restaurant, don’t expect to find cuisine authentic to the eateries of China. Do expect a fusion of the Korean taste with something Koreans think of as Chinese.

An introduction to Korean-Chinese food has to begin with jajangmyeon (pronounced “chah jahng myuhn”), the bowl of black-sauced noodles that works – and looks – a bit like spaghetti.

The signature sauce comes from a black-colored semi-sweet soybean paste that’s been fried with meat and onions. A broth is added, the sauce is thickened. Next the dark meaty mixture is ladled over a bowl of wheat noodles and garnished with slices of cucumber. Note the contrast of black sauce and white noodle at the moment before you thoroughly mix the sauce into the noodles with chopsticks – it gets a bit messy.

Jajangmyeon fits into Korean culture the way pizza does in America. Parents in Korea treat their children with jajangmyeon to celebrate graduating elementary or middle school or as a reward for academic achievement. Chinese food is also the quintessential delivery food for hungry students in dormitories and office workers working late. On moving day, when the kitchen is still not operational, it’s customary to order jajangmyeon to thank your friends (or yourself!) for carrying heavy boxes.

The cost of jajangmyeon in Korea is virtually a national standard, and the market price of this noodle bowl has been like an economic index over the years, documenting the country’s postwar rags-to-riches story. In fact, a regular bowl of jajangmyeon in Annandale’s Korean-Chinese houses will set you back $4 – a nod to the current price in the motherland. (Other entrees on the menu start at $8.)

Like all Korean restaurants, Choong Hwa Won and Jang Won Ban Jum serve banchan (pronounced “pahn chahn”), which are small side dishes to be shared. Kimchi’s attendance is always required, but on Korean-Chinese tables, you’ll find slices of onion and pickled radish. Also on the table are vinegar as an optional dressing for the radish or onion and hot pepper flakes to spice up your noodle bowl if so desired. (Jajangmyeon is not spicy.)

Another Korean-Chinese favorite is tangsuyuk (pronounced “tahng soo yook”), which are pieces of meat, battered and fried, served with vegetables in a sweet and sour sauce. It’s a Koreanized version of what we may know as sweet and sour pork. An order of tangsuyuk is well shared among a group of jajangmyeon bowls.

Need more help navigating the menu?

• In general, choose the type of food you want and choose a variation (usually a choice of meat or seafood). Regular jajangmyeon and tangsuyuk are made with pork.
• Too much to choose from? Check out the combo section of the menu, which pairs two smaller-portioned entrees in a double dish.
• Jjambbong (pronounced “jjhahm bbohng”), a spicy noodle and seafood soup, is another Korean-Chinese standby, second in popularity only to jajangmyeon.
• Feeling homesick? A small selection of American-Chinese foods are on the menu for people who come in and feel a bit lost.
• You can always try the Korean take on Chinese fried rice – talk about culinary diaspora.